I always remember my first glimpse of an orchid-the flower was made into a corsage that my mother wore to a party. I was mesmerized by the look and scent of this strange, exotic flower, waxy-textured, ruffled and of a hot rosy-purple. Becoming fascinated, I began to read about the faraway gardens where this type of orchid grew, and the descriptions caused me to daydream of worlds of brilliant sunshine, emerald rainforests and spicy perfumes.
These exotic visions turned into reality for me, when years later, I visited an exotic garden in Central Florida’s Kissimmee region called A World of Orchids, the world’s largest permanent indoor flowering orchid display. Stepping inside the conservatory, I encountered one of my dream visions come to life-here was a three-quarter acre section of tropical paradise, filled with palms, ferns, exotic bamboos, bromeliads, heliconias and tropical fruit trees. Waterfalls tumbled amid showers of lush foliage, and multitudes of blossoms shone like jewels against myriad shades of green.
The orchids, prima donnas of this world, were breathtaking in their beauty. Some dangled from hanging planters or trees, confronting visitors overhead or at eye level; others starred the feet of enormous tree ferns or created cascades along walkways. Ghostly white moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) appeared to float on spindly stems; sprays of dancing lady orchid oncidium arched and dangled, flaunting curiously speckled, golden flowers; and cattleya orchids, like the one in that long-ago remembered corsage, boasted extravagant ruffles and frills. As I continued my journey along curving pathways, I discovered an amazing diversity of orchid colors–reds, yellows, oranges, pinks, purples and occasional blues. I felt as if I were standing inside a rainbow instead of a cleverly designed, climate-controlled building.
The creation of such beauty, as is so often the case, was fraught with hardship. The battle was waged in this instance against devastating storms. Founders, Kerry and Chris Richards, participants in the international orchid circuit for many years, and owners of an orchid operation in Miami, chose Central Florida as the future site for A World of Orchids, wanting to escape the hurricane belt. Hurricane Andrew, however, moved in to destroy a good part of the original orchid inventory, both propagated and purchased, housed in Miami for the planned Kissimmee exhibit. In 1993, on the day after the opening ceremonies of A World of Orchids, another great storm dislodged sections of the conservatory roof and damaged plant houses.
The eventual result, though, has been well worth the battle. Today A World of Orchids is a full production orchid facility, a place where new hybrids are created, and selected plants are cloned for mass production; plants are shipped nationwide. The business itself involves three different sites, and produces anthuriums and other exotics, as well as orchids. One production facility, specializing in rare Lady Slipper orchids, has, according to Kerry Richards, “an extremely large and valuable collection of breeding plants.”
The conservatory and grounds were created as a gift to the public, providing a tranquil nature retreat. “What we’ve tried to offer,” says Richards, “is a place for the enjoyment of the simple things in life …” The well-labeled and informative display is also designed to educate visitors about the large, diverse orchid plant family, members of which grow on every continent except Antarctica.
Unifying link between the various species is flower structure: three inner petals and three outer petal-like sepals joined to one column, with one of the inner petals curving into a scoop or cup-shape, called the lip.
Otherwise, similarity ends–some orchids are only thimble-sized, producing flowers no larger than the tip of a toothpick, while others range to twenty-foot tall vines or boast flowers as big as dinner plates. Some produce curving flowery sprays, while others bear single blossoms at the tip of erect stems. Certain orchids, especially species orchids, have strange and interesting fragrances, such as vanillaish, chocolatey, fruity or spicy. Some have aromas that defy description, and others have no scent at all.
Garden attractions include not only orchids from all over the world, species from Southeast Asia through the Indonesian Archipelago to Central and South America, but a variety of tropical plants, many of which most of us only see growing as houseplants. Banks are planted with rosy swathes of anthuriums or “flamingo flowers.” Other treasures and curiosities include various heliconias, daffodil-like Amazon lilies Eucharis grandiflora, a breadfruit tree and a cacao tree, the plant from which chocolate is extracted.
Many different tropical foliage plants form backdrops and also lend intriguing shape and texture: bold crotons, feathery bamboos, fan-like palms and ferns of every size. A venerable 75-year-old Tasmanian tree fern (Dicksonia antartica) soars toward the conservatory roof, while low, delicate maidenhairs spill airily along stream banks or beside paths.
Resident garden creatures add charm and drama. Emerging from behind a palm leaf, I encountered two swans, followed by a bevy of squawking ducks ambling blithely ahead along the path. This entourage clambered down into the stream and glided majestically out of sight around a bend in the water. Stopping later beside a fern wrapped lagoon, I watched playful koi, darting streaks of orange, gold and black, rising in a tumble to regard me with open mouths. At the same moment, there came a startling flash of color high above, as a scarlet macaw careened with a whirring of wings into a tree and began to walk upside down, pecking away at the bark.
Birds are a star attraction at the gardens. The bright feathers of the macaws and Amazon parrots appear to echo the shimmering colors of the orchids. Other residents include poison dart frogs, tropical Asian squirrels, pigeons of the worlds and African chameleons. A tropical mural painted by a local resident blends naturally into the general scene; and Oriental touches, like a tea pavilion and curving Japanese bridge, lend elegance and enhance the atmosphere of tranquility.
All of the garden’s attractions are not under glass. Moving outside into the Florida sunshine, sultry and warm even on the January day I visited, I discovered a “rose gazebo” and a wildlife pond, slumbering under a lacy covering of water lettuce. I then followed a nature trail, a thousand-foot boardwalk plunging into a wilderness area of slash pines, palmettos, native magnolias, Osmunda fern, Cypress mosses and lichens. Here was a chance to experience a taste of the “natural Florida,” which sadly is rapidly disappearing, thanks to the recent booming development of the area.
Few visitors leave the gardens without being captivated by the wondrous collection of orchids, and, chances are, they will want to take one or two plants home with them. A stop-off at the gift shop is in order. All should be warned, however, that growing orchids could be addictive! The pursuit is also a lot easier than many people think.
The key, according to Kerry Richards, is to cultivate “by controlled neglect-do not over-water, do not overfeed.” He also made the interesting point, given the exotic allure of these plants, that orchids are probably the most inexpensive plants in cultivation. “An orchid averaging five years to flower,” he says, “costs between $15-25. That’s 1,825 days to produce, or, at $15, a 0.008 cents per day selling price.”
As an added girl to the community, the Richards have recently offered free admission to their gardens, one of the many reasons to visit again and again. I know I certainly will. I also know that I’ve acquired a new hobby and that the rich glow from a purple Denodrium nodding from one of my sunny windows brings back the memory of my special day spent at A World of Orchids.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1082/is_2_46/ai_87779990/pg_2/?tag=content;col1
Water gardening made easy: an in-depth look
Backyard ponds and water gardens are for birds, butterflies, frogs, fish … and you and your family. These ponds are typically small, sometimes no larger than three to four feet in diameter, and may be built in barrels or other patio containers. Water is effective in drawing wildlife to your backyard, as well as a natural, relaxing and scenic addition that can provide interest and enjoyment.
* WHERE TO PUT A BACKYARD POND
Consider locating your backyard pond where you can see it from a deck or patio and it blends in with its natural surroundings. Elevate the soil around the pond slightly so excess water will flow away from the pond, not into it, and be sure any drainage from the pond is away from your house. Plan to landscape around the pond to provide a habitat for frogs and birds that need land and water. If you would like to use a pump to re-circulate water, use a filter or light the area, be sure electrical service is readily available in that area. Additionally, there will be less maintenance if your pond is not under a tree, and most aquatic plants will grow better in full sun.
If you do not have space in your yard for a built-in earthen pond, consider a “tub” pond or large water bowls. These can be placed on the patio and provide many of the same benefits as a built-in pond. There are numerous tub kits available that can be as simple as adding water, a pump and some plants. They can also be moved inside in the winter as long as good lighting is provided for plants.
* POND LINERS
Pond liners keep water from seeping into the soil. Even in heavy clay soils, a liner is necessary. You can buy rigid pond liners in a variety of shapes; they are quite durable, and some may even include built-in waterfalls. However, many are quite small, and if you want a larger pool or would like to design your own shape, consider using a polyvinyl chloride (PVC) liner. Use a liner specifically designed for pools–while other plastics initially may be cheaper, many are not resistant to ultraviolet light and will break down quickly. Examine the toxicity of the plastic as well, as some plastics may be lethal to fish. Also, look into the thickness of the liners–a thicker liner tends to be more resistant to punctures.
If you do use PVC, to determine the amount of the piece you will need, measure the maximum width, length, and depth of your pond. Multiply the maximum depth by three, then add this number to both the length and width. This will allow enough plastic to be securely held down around all pond edges.
As a side note, while expensive and requiring more expertise to install, cement is also an option as a pool liner.
* INSTALLING THE POND
You can put in a backyard pond anytime the ground is not frozen or overly wet. If using a pre-formed liner, dig a hole to the correct depth and slightly wider. Insert the liner, making sure it is level and sits securely in the ground. Backfill around the sides, then add water, pump and plants. Complete landscaping around the pool.
If using a PVC liner, plan at least a weekend to install and landscape.
* STEPS TO INSTALL A POND WITH A PVC LINER:
1. Decide on your pond’s location.
2. Using a hose or rope, lay out the shape of your pond on the ground.
3. Once you are happy with the shape, start digging. Stockpile your topsoil so you can use it to landscape around your pond.
4. Plan for part of your pond to be at least 18 to 24 inches deep; 24 to 36 inches is even better. This will allow for a greater diversity of plants and fish to live in the pond. You may want to make tiers around the inside of the pond at various depths on which to place pots of different aquatic plants. Make tiers about 12 inches wide to accommodate the pots.
5. Remove any rocks from the excavated area.
6. To help prevent punctures in the plastic, put a one-inch layer of damp sand on the bottom of the excavated area.
7. Spread the plastic liner over the hole. Let it sag gently in the hole. Place a few rocks or bricks around the edge to hold in place.
8. Slowly, start filling your pond. The weight of the water will help smooth out the liner. Remove rocks holding the edges to allow liner to conform to the edges of the hole. Smooth out wrinkles but do not pull too tightly. You can walk on the liner if you remove your shoes.
9. Finish off the pond by placing rocks around the edge to securely hold the liner in place.
10. Install pump and filter, if desired. Many smaller pumps have a built-in filter, but for larger pools, a separate pump and filter may be necessary. Be sure the filter and pump are adequate for the volume of water in your pond. Pumps not only add interest but are important in adding oxygen to the water. If you want a fountain or waterfall in your pond, you will need a pump to circulate the water.
11. Let the pond sit for a few days before adding fish and plants. This allows chlorine to evaporate from the water. Chemicals are also available that will quickly neutralize chlorine and other harmful compounds.
12. Place plants at various depths and add fish.
* ESTABLISHING PLANTS
For ponds, consider a mix of emergent, submergent and floating species. Emergent plants (those that have their roots in the water but their shoots above water) can be added to the margins of pools. These include cattails (Typha spp.), arrowhead (Sagittaria spp.) and water lilies (Nymphaea spp.). Submergent species (or those that remain under water, such as Elodea) are often used as oxygenators. These are plants that remove carbon dioxide from the water, add oxygen and are essential in most ponds to keep the water clear. Floating species, or those that are not anchored at all in the pond, include plants such as duckweed (Lemna minor), water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) and water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes). While attractive, water hyacinth and water lettuce can be serious weed problems in the south; however, since they are not winter hardy, there is no problem with them spreading in northern climates. While not as effective as oxygenators, these plants help keep the water clear by limiting the amount of sunlight that algae receive. In tiny ponds created in barrels and similar containers, these plants may be adequate to maintain clear water.
* CHOOSING AND ESTABLISHING PLANTS FOR PONDS
1. Consider the following when selecting plants:
a. How deep is the water? This will be a factor in establishing plants and their survival over winter if you live in colder regions. Some species need a minimum depth of two to three feet to grow well.
b. Is your pond permanently installed in the ground or is it a small tub that will be moved inside in the winter? In this case, even tropical plants may be an option.
c. Will you drain your pond in the winter? If you intend to drain your pond, you should consider plants that can spend the winter in a basement in a dormant state.
d. How much sunlight does your pond receive?
e. How large is your pond? If your pond is small, consider dwarf species.
2. Purchase plants from a reliable vendor. Remember to include some oxygenator plants, such as Elodea.
3. Emergent and submergent plants should be planted into pots. A wide assortment of pots is available, from plastic baskets to pulp planters. Choose pots that are large enough for your plants.
4. If using baskets with numerous perforations, line the basket with burlap or two layers of newspaper to keep the soil from falling out of the holes.
5. Fill the container about half full with a mixture of good garden topsoil. Do not use potting mixes or peat moss. These are too light and will float out of the pot. Adding aquatic plant fertilizer to this bottom layer of soil is recommended for some species. Follow directions on the label for amount.
6. Place the plant on top of the soil and fill the container with topsoil within one inch of the top.
7. When planting water lily rhizomes, make a mound of soil in the middle of the pot, Place the rhizome at a 45-degree angle. The crown of the rhizome should be toward the center of the pot. Cover the roots with soil, but not the crown.
8. In all cases, add a layer of gravel to the top of the pot. This will help keep the soil from floating out and prevent fish from digging in the soil.
9. Slowly place the pots in the pool to keep soil from floating out. Place pots on bricks to get the desired height.
10. Floating species can be placed directly into the pond with no other care needed.
Plants should cover 50 to 70 percent of the water surface. Native plants usually do not need fertilizer, but for some exotic water lilies, limited fertilizing once yearly may be required. Check with your nursery for care of plants and how deep to place potted plants. Be aware that over-fertilizing may cause unwanted algae blooms that can rob the water of oxygen.
* ADD FISH & SCAVENGERS
Consider stocking your backyard pond with native fish. They are fun to watch and help keep the pond free of unwanted insects. Most small ponds will warm up quickly in the summer, so be sure to stock with fish that can tolerate elevated temperatures.
You’ll also need scavengers, such as aquatic snails and tadpoles, to help control algae. In cold climates, a heater may be necessary for fish to survive the winter. However, this uses a significant amount of electricity and, in most cases, probably is not justified. A better option may be to set up an indoor aquarium in which to over-winter fish and plants.
* MAINTENANCE
Algae are a common problem in many newly established ponds. The water often becomes an unsightly green after a few days. While your first instinct is to drain the pond and start over, this only prolongs the problem. Once a pond is “balanced,” algae usually are kept at an acceptable level. A balanced pond is one in which the nutrients are at the appropriate level for the plants present. Excess nutrients and light are needed for algae. Reducing the nutrients and decreasing the amount of light entering the water will help reduce algae. Floating plants, or those with broad leaves, such as water lilies, will help reduce the amount of light available for algae and compete for available nutrients. Scavengers, such as snails, will help clean up wastes from the bottom of the pond.
Pond filters can help reduce algae but require maintenance, as filters need to be cleaned frequently if algae are a problem. Chemicals can also be used to control algae, but use cautiously, as they can be toxic to other plants and aquatic life. The need for algaecides should decrease as plants become established.
Excessive plant growth, especially of free-floating plants, may be a problem. Periodically skim off excess growth of duckweed, water lettuce and other floating plants. Monthly, prune dying plant material. In the spring, clean out some of the decaying plant material that has accumulated in the bottom of the pond. Remember: a natural pond is not a swimming pool, and too much cleaning can do more harm than good.
* SAFETY
Locate the backyard pond where it is unlikely to attract unattended children. Check local safety ordinances to determine if a fence is required for the specific depth and size of your pond, and check local building ordinances for depth and safety restrictions and permits. Equip outdoor outlets with a ground-fault circuit interrupter. Unplug the pump before cleaning the filter.
* ON THE FARM
A properly located and maintained pond can reduce gully erosion and improve water quality. Ponds provide water for livestock, waterfowl and fish, store water for emergencies and add beauty to the landscape. Wildlife use ponds for water and habitat.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1082/is_2_46/ai_87779989/pg_4/?tag=content;col1
* WHERE TO PUT A BACKYARD POND
Consider locating your backyard pond where you can see it from a deck or patio and it blends in with its natural surroundings. Elevate the soil around the pond slightly so excess water will flow away from the pond, not into it, and be sure any drainage from the pond is away from your house. Plan to landscape around the pond to provide a habitat for frogs and birds that need land and water. If you would like to use a pump to re-circulate water, use a filter or light the area, be sure electrical service is readily available in that area. Additionally, there will be less maintenance if your pond is not under a tree, and most aquatic plants will grow better in full sun.
If you do not have space in your yard for a built-in earthen pond, consider a “tub” pond or large water bowls. These can be placed on the patio and provide many of the same benefits as a built-in pond. There are numerous tub kits available that can be as simple as adding water, a pump and some plants. They can also be moved inside in the winter as long as good lighting is provided for plants.
* POND LINERS
Pond liners keep water from seeping into the soil. Even in heavy clay soils, a liner is necessary. You can buy rigid pond liners in a variety of shapes; they are quite durable, and some may even include built-in waterfalls. However, many are quite small, and if you want a larger pool or would like to design your own shape, consider using a polyvinyl chloride (PVC) liner. Use a liner specifically designed for pools–while other plastics initially may be cheaper, many are not resistant to ultraviolet light and will break down quickly. Examine the toxicity of the plastic as well, as some plastics may be lethal to fish. Also, look into the thickness of the liners–a thicker liner tends to be more resistant to punctures.
If you do use PVC, to determine the amount of the piece you will need, measure the maximum width, length, and depth of your pond. Multiply the maximum depth by three, then add this number to both the length and width. This will allow enough plastic to be securely held down around all pond edges.
As a side note, while expensive and requiring more expertise to install, cement is also an option as a pool liner.
* INSTALLING THE POND
You can put in a backyard pond anytime the ground is not frozen or overly wet. If using a pre-formed liner, dig a hole to the correct depth and slightly wider. Insert the liner, making sure it is level and sits securely in the ground. Backfill around the sides, then add water, pump and plants. Complete landscaping around the pool.
If using a PVC liner, plan at least a weekend to install and landscape.
* STEPS TO INSTALL A POND WITH A PVC LINER:
1. Decide on your pond’s location.
2. Using a hose or rope, lay out the shape of your pond on the ground.
3. Once you are happy with the shape, start digging. Stockpile your topsoil so you can use it to landscape around your pond.
4. Plan for part of your pond to be at least 18 to 24 inches deep; 24 to 36 inches is even better. This will allow for a greater diversity of plants and fish to live in the pond. You may want to make tiers around the inside of the pond at various depths on which to place pots of different aquatic plants. Make tiers about 12 inches wide to accommodate the pots.
5. Remove any rocks from the excavated area.
6. To help prevent punctures in the plastic, put a one-inch layer of damp sand on the bottom of the excavated area.
7. Spread the plastic liner over the hole. Let it sag gently in the hole. Place a few rocks or bricks around the edge to hold in place.
8. Slowly, start filling your pond. The weight of the water will help smooth out the liner. Remove rocks holding the edges to allow liner to conform to the edges of the hole. Smooth out wrinkles but do not pull too tightly. You can walk on the liner if you remove your shoes.
9. Finish off the pond by placing rocks around the edge to securely hold the liner in place.
10. Install pump and filter, if desired. Many smaller pumps have a built-in filter, but for larger pools, a separate pump and filter may be necessary. Be sure the filter and pump are adequate for the volume of water in your pond. Pumps not only add interest but are important in adding oxygen to the water. If you want a fountain or waterfall in your pond, you will need a pump to circulate the water.
11. Let the pond sit for a few days before adding fish and plants. This allows chlorine to evaporate from the water. Chemicals are also available that will quickly neutralize chlorine and other harmful compounds.
12. Place plants at various depths and add fish.
* ESTABLISHING PLANTS
For ponds, consider a mix of emergent, submergent and floating species. Emergent plants (those that have their roots in the water but their shoots above water) can be added to the margins of pools. These include cattails (Typha spp.), arrowhead (Sagittaria spp.) and water lilies (Nymphaea spp.). Submergent species (or those that remain under water, such as Elodea) are often used as oxygenators. These are plants that remove carbon dioxide from the water, add oxygen and are essential in most ponds to keep the water clear. Floating species, or those that are not anchored at all in the pond, include plants such as duckweed (Lemna minor), water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) and water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes). While attractive, water hyacinth and water lettuce can be serious weed problems in the south; however, since they are not winter hardy, there is no problem with them spreading in northern climates. While not as effective as oxygenators, these plants help keep the water clear by limiting the amount of sunlight that algae receive. In tiny ponds created in barrels and similar containers, these plants may be adequate to maintain clear water.
* CHOOSING AND ESTABLISHING PLANTS FOR PONDS
1. Consider the following when selecting plants:
a. How deep is the water? This will be a factor in establishing plants and their survival over winter if you live in colder regions. Some species need a minimum depth of two to three feet to grow well.
b. Is your pond permanently installed in the ground or is it a small tub that will be moved inside in the winter? In this case, even tropical plants may be an option.
c. Will you drain your pond in the winter? If you intend to drain your pond, you should consider plants that can spend the winter in a basement in a dormant state.
d. How much sunlight does your pond receive?
e. How large is your pond? If your pond is small, consider dwarf species.
2. Purchase plants from a reliable vendor. Remember to include some oxygenator plants, such as Elodea.
3. Emergent and submergent plants should be planted into pots. A wide assortment of pots is available, from plastic baskets to pulp planters. Choose pots that are large enough for your plants.
4. If using baskets with numerous perforations, line the basket with burlap or two layers of newspaper to keep the soil from falling out of the holes.
5. Fill the container about half full with a mixture of good garden topsoil. Do not use potting mixes or peat moss. These are too light and will float out of the pot. Adding aquatic plant fertilizer to this bottom layer of soil is recommended for some species. Follow directions on the label for amount.
6. Place the plant on top of the soil and fill the container with topsoil within one inch of the top.
7. When planting water lily rhizomes, make a mound of soil in the middle of the pot, Place the rhizome at a 45-degree angle. The crown of the rhizome should be toward the center of the pot. Cover the roots with soil, but not the crown.
8. In all cases, add a layer of gravel to the top of the pot. This will help keep the soil from floating out and prevent fish from digging in the soil.
9. Slowly place the pots in the pool to keep soil from floating out. Place pots on bricks to get the desired height.
10. Floating species can be placed directly into the pond with no other care needed.
Plants should cover 50 to 70 percent of the water surface. Native plants usually do not need fertilizer, but for some exotic water lilies, limited fertilizing once yearly may be required. Check with your nursery for care of plants and how deep to place potted plants. Be aware that over-fertilizing may cause unwanted algae blooms that can rob the water of oxygen.
* ADD FISH & SCAVENGERS
Consider stocking your backyard pond with native fish. They are fun to watch and help keep the pond free of unwanted insects. Most small ponds will warm up quickly in the summer, so be sure to stock with fish that can tolerate elevated temperatures.
You’ll also need scavengers, such as aquatic snails and tadpoles, to help control algae. In cold climates, a heater may be necessary for fish to survive the winter. However, this uses a significant amount of electricity and, in most cases, probably is not justified. A better option may be to set up an indoor aquarium in which to over-winter fish and plants.
* MAINTENANCE
Algae are a common problem in many newly established ponds. The water often becomes an unsightly green after a few days. While your first instinct is to drain the pond and start over, this only prolongs the problem. Once a pond is “balanced,” algae usually are kept at an acceptable level. A balanced pond is one in which the nutrients are at the appropriate level for the plants present. Excess nutrients and light are needed for algae. Reducing the nutrients and decreasing the amount of light entering the water will help reduce algae. Floating plants, or those with broad leaves, such as water lilies, will help reduce the amount of light available for algae and compete for available nutrients. Scavengers, such as snails, will help clean up wastes from the bottom of the pond.
Pond filters can help reduce algae but require maintenance, as filters need to be cleaned frequently if algae are a problem. Chemicals can also be used to control algae, but use cautiously, as they can be toxic to other plants and aquatic life. The need for algaecides should decrease as plants become established.
Excessive plant growth, especially of free-floating plants, may be a problem. Periodically skim off excess growth of duckweed, water lettuce and other floating plants. Monthly, prune dying plant material. In the spring, clean out some of the decaying plant material that has accumulated in the bottom of the pond. Remember: a natural pond is not a swimming pool, and too much cleaning can do more harm than good.
* SAFETY
Locate the backyard pond where it is unlikely to attract unattended children. Check local safety ordinances to determine if a fence is required for the specific depth and size of your pond, and check local building ordinances for depth and safety restrictions and permits. Equip outdoor outlets with a ground-fault circuit interrupter. Unplug the pump before cleaning the filter.
* ON THE FARM
A properly located and maintained pond can reduce gully erosion and improve water quality. Ponds provide water for livestock, waterfowl and fish, store water for emergencies and add beauty to the landscape. Wildlife use ponds for water and habitat.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1082/is_2_46/ai_87779989/pg_4/?tag=content;col1
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