The easy way to maintain your lawn

The amount of time and money you spend maintaining your lawn depends a lot on what your idea of a lawn should be-not necessarily what your lawn actually needs. Early lawns of the Middle Ages did not require much maintenance. That’s because they were inspired by glades or grassy openings in the forest (not pictures in magazines or golf courses). These lawns were meadow-like mixtures of grasses and flowers that were planted amongst fruit trees, vines, flowers and herbs and enclosed by fences or courtyards. There was no mowing. Grass was kept from growing too tall by trampling it into a soft, woven mat-like surface. If you too can adjust your expectations to taller grass, a mix of other plants in your turf, such as clover, and midsummer periods when your grass temporarily turns brown, you can achieve a low-maintenance lawn-and one that’s closer to the original spirit of the lawn.

* THE RIGHT HEIGHT

There are several reasons not to cut your grass too short. First, grass grows from the crown, not the blade tips. This trait makes grass ideal for lawns because they keep on growing despite the regular mowing off of their upper stem, leaf sheath and blades. This is also why it’s important not to damage grass crowns by accidental scalping with the mower. No crown, no grassy Second, keeping grass on the longer side also allows it greater surface area to carry out photosynthesis. This in turn results in healthier plants. Third, taller grass grows slower than shorter grass. You can use this simple fact to eliminate up to 20 percent of the mowing you do annually. That’s a savings of about 8 hours for the average lawn owner, not to mention a savings of gasoline and wear and tear on equipment. Finally, by keeping your grass at high end of its recommended mowing height, you can prevent 90 percent of all weeds from germinating and thereby eliminate the need for herbicides.

* WHEN TO MOW

Most cool season grasses should be cut when they reach heights of 3 to 3-1/2 inches, typically once a week. Warm season grasses should be mowed when it is 2 to 2-1/2 inches tall. Cut no more than one-third of the grass height at each mowing to avoid damage to plants. If the lawn grows too high for you to cut off one-third the height and have an acceptable length, cut off one-third now and mow one-third off again in two or three days. Cutting more than one-third the height will cause grass clippings to lay on top of the lawn and decompose more slowly and will give the grass a more open bristly appearance. In addition, short cutting will stunt or slow root growth and weaken the grass plants.

* WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR LAWN CLIPPINGS

Today’s advice, contrary to 20 or 30 years ago, is to leave clippings on the lawn. The old belief that clippings contribute to thatch build-up is false. Thatch is a build-up of roots and stems, not grass blades. Use a mulching mower and leave clippings where they fall. It not only saves the labor of collecting and composting them, it also reduces the need for adding fertilizer to your lawn and helps to conserve soil moisture. There are exceptions, however, to this advice. If you have neglected your mowing or must mow in wet conditions, the long clippings are likely to form heavy soggy clumps that cover the grass. In such cases, the clippings should be removed so they do not smother the grass. The idea of leaving clippings on the lawn is not new. In 1859 Henry Winthrop Sargent, a garden book writer and editor, wrote “except during may and June when the growth of grass is more rampant, and has to be gathered, we have removed our box for catching the grass as it falls from the rollers, and permit it to fly in a little shower all over the lawn as the cutting progresses. In this way, the lawn top-dresses itself, by returning all that it produces.”

Today’s new mulching mowers, also called recycling mowers, make it even easier to leave clippings where they fall. The deck and blade designs enable these mowers to cut each blade several times, producing a finely chopped clipping.

* WATERING FREQUENCY AND AMOUNT

You should try to give your lawn the water it needs-and no more. This conserves an important resource, saves money and helps prevent grass from becoming diseased due to too much water. How much water your lawn needs depends on the health of your lawn and soil, rainfall and on your climate. You may need only two waterings per year or as many as two per week.

The best approach to deciding when to water grass is to follow nature’s pattern of rainy periods followed by dry ones. Apply enough water to penetrate to the roots of the grass all at once, let the soil almost dry out and apply water again. Grass signals that it needs water by losing its spring-when you walk across the lawn and see your footprints, your lawn probably needs to be watered.

To decide how much water to apply, you should consider several things: the depth of your grass roots, your type of soil and water’s ability to penetrate it and, of course, the weather. First, check to see how deep the roots of your grass are. Add an inch to the average root depth, and this will give you a target for watering depth. It makes no sense to waste water by watering to a depth that’s deeper than your lawn’s root zone. Root depth depends on how much time you have taken to improve your soil and on what type of grass you are growing. Some grasses, such as tall fescues, have roots that can reach one foot deep. Others only grow to half of that, even in the best of conditions. As your grass develops deeper roots, you should adjust your watering target so that you continue to encourage roots to go deeper.

Next, determine how much water it takes to moisten soil to just beyond your root depth. A good rule of thumb is that you will need one to two inches, once or twice a week. If your soil is porous and drains quickly, you would apply one inch of water at the twice-a-week frequency. Conversely, if your soil holds water well, a good guess would be two inches once a week.

To accurately determine how long to run your sprinkler to deliver the desired amount of water, set out cans after a four-to-five day dry spell. Then run your sprinkler until you have delivered one inch of water to your lawn. Wait twenty-four hours to allow the water to penetrate the soil (12 hours if your soil is porous), and then check the depth of the moisture penetration.

If one inch of water moistens soil to a depth well beyond the root depth, try the procedure again but deliver less water. Conversely, if the root depth is not reached, try delivering more water. Keep accurate records of how long you run your sprinkler to deliver the required amounts of water, and base future waterings on what you have learned. If it rains during the week, decrease your watering by the amount of rain. If it has been hot and sunny or windy, you may need to increase your watering amount and frequency.

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Getting answers

QUESTION: Among the exotic plants at a garden show, I saw one called “Buddha’s hand.” The leaves were not outstanding, but the blossom, which looked like a hand in a yellow rubber glove, was spectacular. What can you tell me about this unique plant? Paradise, CA

ANSWER: The inadequacy of common names again rears its ugly head. “Buddha’s hand” usually refers to the citrus tree Citrus medica `Sarcodactylis’; yet the fruit (what you describe doesn’t sound like a flower) suggests the plant you saw may be Solanum mammosum, the “nipplefruit” typically offered in Sunday supplement ads or by seedsmen specializing in oddities.

The tropical nipplefruit, when grown as a container plant, is best treated as an annual. It may survive longer if given cultural conditions similar to those required by its relative, the Jerusalem cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum). The irregularly lobed, prickly foliage is accented by small golden-orange fruits with nipple-like basal lobes. The oddly knobbed fruits are toxic if ingested. Or maybe yet another plant was at the show-who knows when we’re at the mercy of common names?

Q: I enjoy chrysanthemums very much and grow many varieties, but most of them grow out of control. By pinching the tops several times during the growing season, I get bushels of blooms, but they grow too tall. Am I using too much fertilizer? North Providence, RI

A: While numerous hobby mum growers would be delighted with the “bushels of blooms” you mention, plants becoming too tall do tend to fall over or break when loaded down with heavy clusters of flowers.

By dividing your clumps of chrysanthemums every two years, each clump produces fewer stems, thus reducing the elongation of competing stems as well as spindly stems resulting from overcrowding. Continue your practice of vigorously pinching the growing tips. Pinch for the last time in mid-July, or late July for late-season bloomers.

If staking of some varieties is necessary, insert the stakes in June so roots will not be damaged later and to enable the stems to be tied early. Using fertilizers low in nitrogen will help control excessive foliar growth.

Beginning gardeners can prevent this height problem by carefully selecting cultivars noted for self-branching, low growth habits.

Q: How can I cut a geranium down to get rid of the big stalks that have accumulated during the three years I’ve had it? It still flowers beautifully. East Sullivan, NH

A: Although I’ve observed old stock geranium plants with aged, woody trunks supporting fresh new stalks heavy with bloom clusters, these are best left to the commercial grower with a sunny cool greenhouse and the need to produce many cuttings.

For your geranium, I’d suggest starting new plants from cuttings. Cut six to eight inch sections from firm stalk ends. Remove the lower leaves of each stalk, as well as any flower buds, and dip into a rooting hormone.

The cuttings can be rooted in a communal container of perlite mixed with peat or vermiculite. Insert the cuttings into the dry medium and don’t water for a day or two, allowing the cut surface to form a scar. Keep new cuttings in bright, indirect light with high humidity. Transplant to individual containers when rooted.

Cuttings can also be rooted in separate rooting blocks or cells. Or root three to five cuttings directly in a larger pot of houseplant soil mix so you need not repot immediately.

Although your original plant will resprout and produce blossoms, it won’t be as vigorous or as shapely as its offspring. Why not plant the old plant directly in a summer flowerbed as an accent plant, giving it a shot at a spectacular last hurrah?

Q: Our original planting of thornless blackberries produced bumper crops until an untrained “gardener” cut them to the ground; since then, we have had leafy canes but no fruit. Newer plants, nearby, are beginning to fruit. Can the older plants be brought back into production? Wichita, KS

A: Keep plants in discrete clumps, allowing three or four new canes to develop each spring. In late fall, remove old canes whether they have fruited or not. Topdress the plants in early spring with about one pound of 5-10-5 fertilizer for every 25 square feet of bed area. A generous loose mulch between the rows and around the plants is beneficial, but do not mulch over the crowns.

An acquaintance of mine with a farm tends large patches of wild blackberries. When fruit production dwindles, he mows them to the ground, then throws on a quantity of fertilizer (usually 10-10-10). In two or three years, man-killing canes are back to head height, loaded with fruit.

–John Ebert has a degree in horticulture and is co-owner and operator of the last working family farm in the township of Cherry Hill, NJ. As well as retailing the produce grown on the farm at their market, John’s family also specializes in the production and culture of over 350 varieties of herbs, as well as perennials, bedding and vegetable plants. For more information on John’s most interesting farm, questions on this article or other plant-related issues, email him at sfm@juno.com.

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Summer rose care

Now is the time to prune those old garden roses to keep them from taking over your yard. Once their spectacular spring display is over, it’s a lot easier for the rosarian to work up the courage to attack them with the pruners and loppers. Remove older canes, and those that are popping up outside the space you’ve allowed for the plant. Leave the canes long, if possible, or you’ll be removing next spring’s flowers.

Modern roses will keep on blooming until after frost and therefore need to be kept pest flee. Establish (and stick to) a spray regimen based on the frequency of application on the labels of the fungicide, insecticide and miticide you

use. You may be able to prevent damage from insects and mites using organic products, but you really do need a good chemical fungicide to prevent rose diseases such as blackspot and powdery mildew. Fungal diseases often don’t show up on the leaves and canes until after they’ve been working for a month or more. And because it’s a lot easier to prevent these diseases than it is to cure them, you and your roses will be much happier if you spray a fungicide preventively.

Many of the older spray materials have been removed from the market and have been replaced with products created using “new” chemistry that is much more benign. These products are more expensive than the old ones, but then again, what isn’t? Not only are they more environmentally friendly, but they’re more effective and have to be sprayed much less frequently. Additionally, the dosages are substantially smaller-sometimes only a half-teaspoon mixed with five gallons of water-so, if you have more than a couple dozen rosebushes, consider forking over the extra shekels. When you have lots of plants to spray, always calculate the mixed, per-gallon cost of spray materials.

Most modern roses don’t need summer pruning, per se, but spent flowers should be removed promptly to encourage continuous blooming. It makes no difference to the plant if you cut every rose in your garden or if you enjoy the blooms on the plant and cut them off when they’re not pretty any more. Removing flowers, whether they’re dead or alive, can be considered pruning and should be done thoughtfully. Remember that a new cane that grows from an older cane will never be any fatter than the older cane. Therefore, it’s important to cut a long stem on a hybrid tea or on a floribunda spray so that the new cane that grows from the top remaining leaf axil will be sturdy enough to support the new flower(s).

New stems will grow from the axil of the topmost set of remaining leaves, so flower stems should be cut on an angle, and about 1/4-inch above the leaves that will remain on the cane. Keep in mind that the plant’s leaves are the factory that hosts photosynthesis and keeps the plant alive, so never remove more than 1/3 of a rose plant’s leaves at one time.

Roses can use almost as much fertilizer and water as you can give them. They grow fast and bloom freely, so they like lots of good stuff to chew on. Alternate a chemical fertilizer that has been formulated specifically for roses, and lots of good organic stuff, such as liquid fish, liquid seaweed, alfalfa meal and/or aged horse manure to ensure that your roses get all of the macro- and micro-nutrients they need. Many rosarians feed their roses something nearly every day, so feel free to feed a smaller amount of a wider variety of fertilizers, but more often.

Most of all, love your roses. Revel in their beauty as it graces your garden, or cut every flower to perfume the house or to give away. After all, that’s why you’re growing them!

–Article by Ann Hooper Phone Primary Products at 800.841.6630 for all your rose care needs.

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Container gardening

A container garden can be an artistic composition of color, form and movement, pleasing to the senses, a softening of a terrace, deck or patio or showcasing an entryway. Ideally, such a garden in a pot consists of a variety of plants-one or two stretching upward, others spilling gracefully over the rims. Filled with flowers and fascinating foliage, some gardeners even use them as artistic statements directly in garden beds. Many gardeners are discovering that brightly glazed or painted ceramic pots, spilling over with attractive flowers and foliage, brighten a landscape and serve as sensual focal points. * But for success with containers, you need to take a few precautions to ensure healthy plants. Because roots are confined in spaces smaller than landscape beds, it’s crucial to make sure the plants won’t be stressed by under or over watering. The first requirement is to select the right size container. Trade in the tiny pots for those that provide adequate size for roots and won’t dry out quickly. That’s the sage advice offered by Evelyn Weidner, founder and owner of Weidner’s Gardens in Encinitas, California. Weidner specializes in hanging baskets filled with flowering or foliage plants. A real hands-in-the-dirt gardener, she’s been doling out garden advice along with plants for decades.

“The common mistake so many gardeners make is using containers that are just too small,” she said. “An eight-inch pot is the minimum size I recommend so plants won’t dry out too fast.”

She also cautions against placing a two-inch plant in an eight-inch container.

“Although people think they’re giving the plant lots of room and plenty of water by doing this, what really happens instead is that all too often water isn’t absorbed by the roots and runs out the pot instead.”

When designing container gardens, there are several options. You can select a showy plant to use by itself. For more drama, group several containers together. This technique also helps the plants by increasing humidity in the location. Or you can plant a miniature landscape in an upright or hanging container. Follow these recommendations and you’ll enjoy success with your container gardens:

1. Invest in good quality containers, the bigger, the better. Lightweight decorative containers made from molded resins, fiberglass or plastic capture the look of expensive antique containers and are light enough to move around. Select hanging baskets with enough depth and diameter to accommodate several different types of plants.

2. Use good quality potting mix. If you’re replanting in the same container, replace the mix with fresh to minimize fungal diseases.

3. For pots, use a woody plant like Hollywood juniper or some other conifer as the feature piece in the center. Surround it with a combination of flowering plants with a mounding habit. Then complete the planting with flowering plants that cascade down the sides of the container. Change out these annuals seasonally when peak flowering is over. For hanging baskets, use an upright plant in the center, surrounded by several mounding plants, and complete the design with a few trailing plants.

4. Keep the container well watered. In summer, this may mean watering daily if containers are in sun or temperatures exceed 90 [degrees]. Make sure plants are adequately soaked by watering, waiting a minute, and watering again. Or you can set containers on a drip system with a timer.

5. Fertilize at least once every two weeks with a liquid fertilizer prepared according to package directions. Although the cost is higher, a time-release pellet fertilizer applied at the time of planting simplifies container care because each watering releases fertilizer on a constant basis.

6. Deadhead regularly to increase flower production. Prune or pinch plants to shape. Replace individual plants when they’re past their peak of performance.

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Flowers are lovely; love is flower-like, friendship is a sheltering tree

June was to be a special time for me. I had it all planned-we would travel to the wine country, and amid the fields of California poppies, I would pop the question. Well, sooner, rather than later, it happened. On February 14, 2002, (Valentine’s Day), I became engaged. Instead of a field of poppies, we had roses in vases. Not that I am complaining one bit. I met the girl of my dreams, Gina D’Orazio, only five months prior, but I instantly knew she was the one for me. So as spring heralds a new beginning, I too have a wonderful new beginning to my life.

With this new happening, I am inspired and energized to update my garden plans as well. For starters, I want to build my own backyard pond. I procrastinated for years, but this summer I am finally going to do it (possibly with the help of my new fiancee??). Anyone else who is interested can follow the in-depth advice beginning on page eighteen.

Over the past year rainfall levels have dropped drastically. Drought continues to affect many areas of the country, and in mm fire danger is a serious concern. Breathe easier by keeping in mind the `three R’s’ related to fire danger, highlighted in “Fire-Tolerant Plants” page thirty.

On a side note, due to time constraints in the consolidation of our New York City office to our headquarters in New Jersey, it was necessary to suspend publication of our March/April issue, however, all subscribers will be extended one issue. We are now back on schedule and appreciate your understanding. Phone us at 856.354.5034 if you have any questions.

Hope you enjoy summer and as always …

See you in the garden …

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The gardening gourmet

Hello readers … and happy warm weather season! Since I am a berry fanatic-strawberries, raspberries, blackberries-I decided to continue our early summer Gardening Gourmet trend with another berry-the blueberry.

As I’ve mentioned before, I live in New Jersey, The Garden State, and, yes, being The Garden State we do have many wonderful “Jersey Fresh” fruits and vegetables throughout the growing season. In addition, I didn’t have to look very far for blueberry research, for about a half hour from my home is the city of Hammonton, also known as “The Blueberry Capital of the World.” I do know, however, through my research, that there are other cities and towns across the country which also boast such titles, so I will explore not only the various areas that produce blueberries, but the different varieties that correspond as well.

The blueberry plant is actually a native American species used by early settlers as a staple ingredient in their foods and medicines. In the early 1900s Elizabeth White and Dr. Frederick Coville domesticated one variety of blueberry, the wild highbush, to create the plump, juicy, sweet, cultivated blueberry we know today. North America is the world’s leading blueberry producer, accounting for almost 90% of world production. Cultivated blueberries, the ones developed by White and Coville, are grown in more than 30 states, as well as across British Columbia and Canada. The North American blueberry harvest begins in mid-April and ends in early October with the peak harvest in July (also known as National Blueberry Month).

When first contemplating growing blueberries in your home garden, consider a few things. First, there are three main types of blueberries: highbush, southern highbush and rabbiteye. All three varieties are cultivated, but your locality will determine what variety you will want to grow. The rabbiteye and the southern highbush varieties are recommended for growth in the southern states, while the highbush variety is typically grown in northern locales. Then, within each variety, there are different kinds of plants, called cultivars. Their differences are based upon ripening season, yield, fruit size and quality.

The second aspect to consider is your soil type. Blueberry plants grow best in soil that is very acidic with soil pH in the range of 4 to 4.5. It is suggested that you test your soil before attempting to grow blueberry plants in case modifications need to be made. Many times simply incorporating peat moss into your soil will do the trick. Blueberry plants also require full sunlight as well as adequate drainage, and planting blueberry bushes in low-lying areas is not recommended.

One of the easiest things about growing blueberries though, once the above criteria are met, is that they are often a wonderful addition to the home garden because they require only a small space to grow. Blueberry bushes can be planted as close as 2-1/2 feet apart and up to 6 feet apart. When planting, be sure to cover the roots and water well; they are also quite fond of mulch which will prevent weeds and aid with irrigation.

Blueberry plants will not begin to bear fruit until the third year and will not become fully productive until year six. With that said, it is very important to prune each plant during the initial years, as this will maximize your blueberry crop in the years to come. All blooms should be removed during the first year and, in years thereafter, growth around the base should be removed, as well as scrawny, dead branches.

As with many fruit and vegetable plants, they must be monitored for animal and insect damage as well as disease. Blueberry plants are very popular with birds, especially when they begin to bear fruit. Insects to watch for include the blueberry tip borer, the plum curculio, the leafroller, the cranberry and cherry fruitworms and the blueberry maggot. Diseases often include mummy berry, powdery mildew, twig blights, botrytis blossom blight, leaf spots and cane gall. As always, it is in your best interest to check with your local nurseries for any in-depth questions or problems you may have.

As I previously mentioned with regard to choosing the type of cultivar you grow, there are several important factors to contemplate. These factors are not only important for growing, but also for cooking. The first pertinent factor is the ripening season. If you want blueberries from May to October continuously, then plant cultivars that will bear fruit at different times. Some cultivars only bear fruit early in the season, while others only in midseason and still others only in late season. A second factor to consider is fruit size. Some cultivars yield smaller berries, which are best for muffins and pancakes, while the larger berries are better for pies, cobblers and buckles or eating right from your hand. Again, your local nurseries can help you choose the best cultivars for all your favorite blueberry recipes.

Additionally, I want to point out all the wonderful health benefits that blueberries have to offer. Blueberries have always been known to be low in calories, high in fiber and virtually fat free. In a new study done by Tuffs University, it has been shown that blueberries are also high in antioxidants, and, as is often heard, diets high in antioxidants may possibly lead to the prevention of cancer, heart disease and other related illnesses.

Blueberries were a very popular ingredient for our early settlers, and not only were fresh blueberries used, but dried ones as well. Many of the blueberry recipes we see today are for just desserts, however, the early settlers knew better-they incorporated blueberries into everything from salads to stews, so I am going to show you a little versatility of the blueberry.

The first recipe is a great way to use up some of your extra blueberries. It’s easy to prepare and can be a delicious topping for pancakes, ice cream, fruit or poundcake, as well as included in a chicken recipe. Experiment with it on your favorite foods, and let me know what you think.

* BLUEBERRY COMPOTE

Ingredients:

2-1/2 cups blueberries
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup water

Method:

Combine 1-1/2 cups blueberries, sugar and water in saucepan.
Simmer over medium heat about 10 minutes, stirring often.
Mixture should be somewhat juicy. Add remaining berries.
Continue cooking, about 8 minutes, until mixture coats the
back of a spoon, stirring often. Serve warm. Can be stored
in refrigerator in covered container. Reheat before serving.

The next recipe can be served for breakfast, as a snack or
as a side dish. These blueberry lemon corn muffins are
sweet, but the cornmeal balances out the flavor. They go
very well with barbecue chicken or ribs, cole slaw and
corn-on-the-cob.
* BLUEBERRY LEMON CORN MUFFINS

Ingredients:

1 stick (1/2 cup) butter
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flower
3 tsp. baking powder
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup plus 2 tbsp. sugar
2 tbsp. freshly grated lemon zest
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 cup whole milk
4 large egg yolks
1-1/2 cups blueberries, preferably of the smaller variety

Method:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line 12 muffin cups with
paper liners. Melt butter and cool. Sift flour and baking
powder into a large bowl; whisk in cornmeal, 1 cup sugar,
and lemon zest. In another bowl, whisk together melted
butter, milk, and egg yolks. Add this mixture and half of the
blueberries to first mixture and stir until just combined.
Divide batter evenly among muffin cups and press remaining
blueberries into tops of muffins. Sprinkle each muffin
with remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar. Bake muffins for
about 15 minutes until tops are golden and a toothpick
comes out clean. Cool muffins on rack. Store in an airtight
container.

On a hot summer day you can't do much better than my
third recipe. I love to start a meal on a hot July or August
day with some nice, cold soup. But many people find that
this soup can be just as wonderful as a dessert. Whatever
way you serve this soup, it's sure to please.
* CHILLED BLUEBERRY SOUP

Ingredients:

2 pints blueberries
2 cups plain yogurt
1/2 cup orange juice
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup water
1/4 tsp. cinnamon

Method:

Place blueberries, sugar, water and cinnamon in a saucepan
over medium heat about 15 minutes until sugar dissolves
and berries are tender, stirring often. Place blueberry mixture
in a blender with yogurt and orange juice. Puree. Taste
soup and decide if it is to your desired taste and consistency.
If too thick, add more water or orange juice, depending
on your preference. Place in covered container and chill in
refrigerator until cold.

The next is a traditional blueberry dessert recipe. When
berry season is in full swing, I try a new cobbler or buckle
just about every weekend. My only dilemna is whether I
should use an oatmeal-nut or biscuit topping ... or serve
with vanilla ice cream or homemade whipped cream-the
possibilities are endless! Well, after much experimenting, I
have found this one to be one of my favorites.
* BEST PICKED BLUEBERRY COBBLER

Ingredients:

1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1-1/2 tsp. double-acting baking powder
3 tbsp. cornstarch
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup brown sugar, packed
1 tsp. cinnamon
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 stick (1/2 cup) cold butter, cut into small pieces
6 cups blueberries

Method:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 10-inch, deep dish
pie plate. Sift cornstarch and combine with sugar, blueberries
and lemon juice in a large bowl. Toss the mixture
until it is well-combined and place in buttered pie plate. In
another bowl, combine flour, brown sugar, baking powder
and cinnamon and stir until well-mixed. Add the butter
pieces and blend until the mixture resembles a coarse
meal. Cutting through the mixture using two knives often
helps. Add 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons boiling water and
stir the mixture until it forms a dough. Drop 1/4 cupfuls
of the dough on top of blueberry mixture. Bake cobbler on
a baking sheet for 30-40 minutes or until the topping is
golden brown. Serve warm with ice cream or homemade
whipped cream.

I know I have tempted all of you with these delicious recipes, but I  want to mention a few more related items. First, if you do find  yourself at the end of the blueberry season with extra blueberries, and  you just cannot prepare another blueberry dish-freeze them. It's  easy-place unwashed (important) blueberries in a single layer on a  cookie sheet, put in freezer, and when frozen, transfer to an airtight  plastic bag or container. When ready to use, take out and rinse under  water. The berries will begin to thaw immediately.
   
Secondly, if you find that your blueberries aren't as sweet as  they could be, just place then in a paper bag with an apple, and they  will ripen before you know it. Last, if you are always worded that your  tablecloths, cloth napkins or clothes will become permanently stained  from spilled blueberry treats, try this: simply rinse newly stained  spots in cold water, mix one tablespoon vinegar to forty ounces (five  cups) of warm water and soak. This will (hopefully) do the trick.

I leave all of you with my best wishes for a great summer  filled with wonderful fruits and vegetables from your gardens to  incorporate into all your recipes!

Until next time, happy cooking!

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Cutting flowers for arrangements is more than snip and pluck

Cutting flowers from a home garden and arranging them attractively doesn’t require the skills of a Master Gardener, but a Penn State Cooperative Extension gardening expert says the picking is easier if gardeners remember a few tips.

“When you walk in the garden to cut blooms, the stems should be placed immediately in water, a process we call conditioning,” says Emile Swackhamer, horticultural extension agent in Lehigh County, PA. “Flowers that have been conditioned in water look fresher and last longer in arrangements.”

Swackhamer recommends carrying a bucket partially filled with lukewarm water to put flowers in as they are cut. Choose flowers with longer stems, so they can be re-cut later to fit an arrangement. “Use sharp shears,” Swackhamer says. “Make the cut above a bud to ensure new growth and more flowers.”

The best time to cut flowers? In early morning, just as the dew is drying, or in the evening. Never cut flowers during hot temperatures, particularly in the afternoon. “Cut only the most perfect blooms,” Swackhamer says. “Observe the garden to see when the flowers reach their most beautiful stage. That is the time to cut, and it will vary from one flower to another.”

Swackhamer recommends cutting cluster flowers (such as delphinium, foxglove or lilac) before all the flowers are open. Other flower types, such as sunflowers or zinnias, must be fully open before cutting.

Cut flowers should be arranged loosely to allow air to circulate, and water should be lukewarm during conditioning for most flower varieties. Keep the flowers in the water at room temperature for several hours or overnight. Swackhamer says gardeners can use a flower preservative in the water. “They make flowers last longer by maintaining the acidity level at a pH between 3.5 and 5,” she says.

To prepare cut flowers for arrangements, first remove most of the leaves. “They will rot and foul the water, and stems will look better,” Swackhamer says. Then, double-check which lengths you want, and re-cut the stems underwater. Cutting underwater will eliminate bubbles that can prevent stems from taking up moisture. “Stems are cut on a slant so they can take in the most amount of water available when resting on the bottom of a vase or container,” she explains.

To make an arrangement last as long as possible, cut stems and change the water and preservative every day. Keep the flowers out of direct sunlight and store them in a cool spot overnight. “I put them out on the porch where the temperature is cool and the humidity is high,” Swackhamer says.

* SPECIAL CONDITIONING POINTERS

Milky sap flowers (asclepias, poppies, poinsettias): To prevent sticky sap from blocking water uptake, place the stem in boiling water for ten seconds or hold it over a candle flame to sear the end.

Woody stems (lilacs, butterfly bush, mock orange, rhododendrons): Split the stems with shears to allow more moisture to be absorbed. “Be careful not to crush the stem,” Swackhamer says.

Foliage: “Ornamental leaves are best conditioned standing upright, like flowers,” Swackhamer says.

* WHEN TO CUT

Fully open: Calendula, black-eyed susan, gaillardia, dahlia and zinnia.

Half-to-fully open: Anemone, azalea, bachelor’s button, bee balm, daisy, daylily, delphinium and lilac.

Others: Bleeding heart (four or five florets open), daffodil (as color shows in bud), gladiolus (one to five buds showing color), iris (as first bud opens), poppy (night before opening) and tulip (from bud to half open). Roses should be cut as the second petal unfurls above a five-petal leaf.

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